Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Sun Feb 19, 2017 12:54 pm

Cool way to design the louvres!

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:31 pm

Tom wrote:Cool way to design the louvres!
Finally it was quite easy, but at the beginning it cost me several sleepless nights... :roll: For not only making "Wieners", but to get louvres which almost have a real "shape" my knowledge in graphic design comes to its edges. Therefore I turned the original photo diagonal, because it was much easier this way to work with upright louvres...

Finally, photo-etching was made with this result:

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Old louvres milled off:

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...and the new parts glued onto the bonnet:

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To finish the day, a first coat of primer was airbrushed:

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gilma
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by gilma » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:48 pm

Wonderful jean :) I must admit I was not sure at first, because the origin was very good IMO, but I immediately came to my senses and knew your end result would be much better. I'm very curious to see the final color, and love the improvements you made so far 8-)

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:52 pm

Those louvres are s real masterpiece and will take this to another level. MM43, take note! :D

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Jager
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jager » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:59 pm

Awesome job Jean. Your skills and problem solving creativity will take this to another level.
“Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting.” - Steve McQueen

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stewil
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by stewil » Mon Feb 20, 2017 2:02 pm

Jean,
Love your approach to replicate the louvers. Please show us how you will open and then shape them once you get to that step.
This a a major problem solving challenge, at least to me it would be.
I have opened the louvers on a race car model once but they were all the same size. Twenty two curving louvers of unequal sizes is a daunting task. Not sure that I would grind off the current molded ones until I had solved the problem, on the other hand, if they are gone, then I would be forced to solve the problem. :roll:

One other thing I noticed on the 1:1 pics vs the models wind screen casting was the thickness of the vertical supports. Their delicacy is one of the visually stunning aspects of the real car. Just a thought. ;)

Love seeing the reconstruction of one of the more interesting and beautiful cars of the 1930's being played out on the computer screen. Thank you for having the courage to improve this already fine model. Happy reconstructing through creative problem solving. 8-)
Cheers and Happy Collecting,
Steve

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Ralf B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Ralf B. » Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:08 pm

Darn, I must stop watching your projects, otherwise I will dump my collection and start over again with coasters or match-boxes... :shock:
“It should have been me, driving that Dynaflow."

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Tue Feb 21, 2017 1:02 pm

gilma wrote:Wonderful jean :) I must admit I was not sure at first, because the origin was very good IMO, but I immediately came to my senses and knew your end result would be much better. I'm very curious to see the final color, and love the improvements you made so far 8-)
Thank you, and as I already said, I felt very insecure, too, but meanwhile I cannot understand why I've ever doubted, because it's so much FUN to deal with all these details :D
Tom wrote:Those louvres are s real masterpiece and will take this to another level. MM43, take note! :D
It's the third time I'm doing this on a model car, but already the last two models (Daimler Double Six and Jaguar) convinced me that this is "the right way" :)
Jager wrote:Awesome job Jean. Your skills and problem solving creativity will take this to another level.
Thanks :oops: , but I don't know... at the moment I am only repeating things I have already tried. I'm curious when the next really "new" problem will occur and will plunge me into despair :roll:
stewil wrote:Jean, love your approach to replicate the louvers. Please show us how you will open and then shape them once you get to that step.
This a a major problem solving challenge, at least to me it would be.

I'm very sorry, but I think I'll have to disappoint you... :cry: There is nothing to be opened, it's simply p/e parts which are more accurate than the casted ones. However, I can tell you how to solve the problem: The original side panels have to be cut out/off, replaced with 0.2mm brass sheet, in which the necessary slots were cut into and driven outside in a wooden mould (which of course has to be created manually). This requires the sound knowledge of a jeweller, goldsmith or precision mechanic and the appropriate tools. Unfortunately I am none of them and do not have those tools.

One other thing I noticed on the 1:1 pics vs the models wind screen casting was the thickness of the vertical supports. Their delicacy is one of the visually stunning aspects of the real car. Just a thought. ;)

Yes, I know... but again: to make them leaner is almost impossible due to the many curved parts of the windscreen. It would be best to make a complete new one, but with all those curves (center "nose" and side "wings") this cannot be made by photo-etching, and if building a new one, those fine details couldn't be casted in white-metal without a centrifuge (with which the professional manufacturers work).
Ralf B. wrote:Darn, I must stop watching your projects, otherwise I will dump my collection and start over again with coasters or match-boxes... :shock:
Don't you dare! Your collection is full of masterpieces, what I'm doing is only trying to catch up with all those treasures I'll never own... :cry:

After retouching some small spots and blemishes, a second coating of primer was airbrushed, and it looks pretty nice now:

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Tomorrow the first colour (yellow) should be made, unfortunately (or thanks heaven!) a first test showed that it stays sticky :evil: I don't understand that, because I used two Humbrol matte paints with Humbrol thinner, actually this should have worked (like hundreds of times before!). So I first have to look for an alternative...

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Wed Feb 22, 2017 1:19 pm

As promised, yellow paint has been airbrushed:

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After having bought some new cans of yellow paint, it seems that it works this time, although the shade is not yet satisfying... :? ...still a little bit too green. Tomorrow, with some daylight, I will put some more orange into and spray a second layer.

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Thu Feb 23, 2017 1:08 pm

No, that's not the final painting! Yellow paints do not cover dark primers very good, that's why the last painting seemed so dirty-greenish. So a white-based foundation is necessary before using a yellow paint. This has been done now:

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Within the next days (I'm a little busy at the moment) I'll airbrush the final bright yellow ("sunflower")...

And this - a red-brown - is the colour for the interior:

Image

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Thu Feb 23, 2017 2:03 pm

Looking very promising...

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Sun Feb 26, 2017 1:14 pm

Tom wrote:Looking very promising...
And I really hope to be able to keep the promises! After having been distracted from the real important things I'm back at work and would like to show what I have done today:

Yellow - finally - finished:

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Hood is ready:

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chassis as well:

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and bumpers are prepared:

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interior, of course still without dashboard:

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Tomorrow the really delicate work will start to mask the body for the red painting... wish me luck! :)

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reeft1
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by reeft1 » Sun Feb 26, 2017 2:27 pm

Superb as always Jean

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Sun Feb 26, 2017 4:06 pm

These pieces look great, looking forward to the next steps.

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Jager
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jager » Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:22 pm

Wow, that yellow look really bright :shock: . I though you were planning to go for the toned down colour scheme. :lol:

As always, looking forward to the 'marriage' which is getting closer by the day.
“Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting.” - Steve McQueen

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Mon Feb 27, 2017 10:34 am

reeft1 wrote:Superb as always Jean
Thank you, of course I'll never let you know what's gone wrong totally... ;)
Tom wrote:These pieces look great, looking forward to the next steps.
It's always hard to be patient when already seeing how everything comes together, isn't it? :)
Jager wrote:Wow, that yellow look really bright :shock: . I though you were planning to go for the toned down colour scheme. :lol: As always, looking forward to the 'marriage' which is getting closer by the day.
I mainly didn't like two things with the original painting: The red was too "blueish", and the bright red and the creamy yellow didn't "go together". When studying the car, I felt that this was a real "fun car" - think of the compartments for Bourbon & Cigars - IN A CAR :mrgreen: , so I can imagine that the colour scheme was "fun" as well. Furthermore, in those days they worked with paints pigmented with cadmium, chrome and lead oxides, which are prohibited nowadays, but made colours so intense and bright we can hardly imagine today. So I decided to make a "brownish" red, an adequate yellow, and both flashy. Here's the preview:

masked with BMF (terrible work, you simply cannot see where you're cutting as the blade and the foil are sparkling the bet:

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...and airbrushed red:

Image

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Mon Feb 27, 2017 2:53 pm

You are getting close indeed, but it's as great to see the individual steps as it is to see the end result. I tend to get a little impatient sometimes, however. :)

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Paulius43
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Paulius43 » Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:28 am

Jean, love your way of thinking about the color selection!!
Looks fabulous! Waiting for the final result.

P.S. have you prepared a 1/43 bourbon bottle and cigar box?
"A picture is worth a thousand words, but a model is worth a thousand pictures." Harley J. Earl
My concept car 1:43 collection: viewtopic.php?t=1096

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:34 pm

Tom wrote:You are getting close indeed, but it's as great to see the individual steps as it is to see the end result. I tend to get a little impatient sometimes, however. :)
Guess that model building is the best therapy against impatience :lol: ! For me I always dream of taking a model or a kit and have it finished the same afternoon. When starting this hobby, I needed about two weeks for a model and thought that this would get shorter from model to model. In fact, with all the techniques I've adapted since then, I meanwhile need six weeks and more for a model, so the therapeutic effect seems to increase while doing all this... ;)
Paulius43 wrote:Jean, love your way of thinking about the color selection!! Looks fabulous! Waiting for the final result. P.S. have you prepared a 1/43 bourbon bottle and cigar box?
Thank you :P ! Believe it or not, I really did think about making bourbon & cigars :roll: I would have done so, if I had found a way to handle the thing with the necessary hinges for the compartment lids. There would have been enough space behind, and I already had ideas for making glasses and bottles... Had I only made a traning as a goldsmith... :)

Today there is not so much to see, the second layer of red paint had been airbrushed, it looks - under daylight - a hue darker than before (photo is taken under a desk lamp):

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The headlights, filled up with clear resin (on the photo not to be seen, looks a little bit like "glass"), rods painted red:

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Tomorrow will be the day of truth, when the masking foil is removed... :o

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:58 pm

Masking foil had been removed, after some little retouches (it never works the way I want it to :evil: ) it looks quite nice, I think:

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And a first glimpse on the dashboard, though not ready yet:

Image

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Wed Mar 01, 2017 1:23 pm

Like the colours so far, and it looks like your masking was done very well. Incredible amount of detail on such a small dash.

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reeft1
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by reeft1 » Wed Mar 01, 2017 3:02 pm

Jean - im tempted to give that bmf masking a go as i have a horror when trying to get a neat edge using masking tape. question - would bmf stick to a gloss finish or do i have to take an existing car back to bare metal and use paints that require a top laquer coat only after all "matt" finishes are completed?

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Jean B.
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Jean B. » Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:57 pm

Tom wrote:Like the colours so far, and it looks like your masking was done very well. Incredible amount of detail on such a small dash.
I'm sure the colours will get more intense with the clear lacquer! Unfortunately I ran out of it and need a couple of days to get new one... :? The dash is so interesting for the "art nouveau" style instruments (I burnished them to achieve an "old brass" look) and for the technique of them - no round gauges, but a kind of "drums" in the tiny rectangle holes, a predecessor of "digital" gauges... :D
reeft1 wrote:Jean - im tempted to give that bmf masking a go as i have a horror when trying to get a neat edge using masking tape. question - would bmf stick to a gloss finish or do i have to take an existing car back to bare metal and use paints that require a top laquer coat only after all "matt" finishes are completed?
I'll try to give an overview of "how to" below, hope you can work with. Otherwise please let me know, I'll be glad to submit more advice if needed :P

Small tutorial for masking (unfortunately without photos)

The Masking foil

There are several (expensive) masking foils and tapes available, but they all are united by one fault: they are simply too thick! The second colour which is to be applied runs into the edges of the masking foil, and the thicker the foil, the thicker the resulting colour seam! Futhermore the masking foil must have absolutely sharp edges, even the expensive foils and tapes often have rough edges. In the end only BMF (BareMetalFoil) offers an ultra-thin foil, and when cut with a surgeon blade you get 100% sharp edges. It’s expensive, but it’s worth it!

The Paint

You can use any paint, but I recommend matte enamel paints by Humbrol or Revell. Why? Masking means that a second paint is applied both over a first layer of paint and over a foil resp. tape. When removing the foil, the second layer of paint has to tear along the foil very sharp. Gloss paints as well as acrylic paints make thicker layers and – more important – they have a more “tight” texture which means that they do not tend to tear at the desired edge, but anywhere else. Only matte enamel paint tears exactly at the edge of the foil, and if there are any impurities left, you can scratch them off easily with a surgeon blade.

The method

Airbrush the first (base) colour and let it harden for at least 24 h. Then smoothen this layer with finest steel wool or very fine sanding linen until you have a smooth surface. If necessary wash the model with washing benzine (doesn’t harm dry paint and dries in seconds). Cut out a larger piece of BMF and stick onto the model. Rub on the BMF very carefully, but very tightly with a cotton tip, especially in edges. A sharpened and polished toothpick helps pressing on the foil in edges. Use AlClad ClearCote Flat to give the foil a matte finish (dries in two minutes). For cutting use a fresh surgeon blade which is painted matte as well. I recommend this because the shiny blade and the metal foil gleam and sparkle in a way that you cannot see where you’re cutting! The following work should only be done when you’re well slept, fresh and deeply relaxed: Take a deep breath, think of the beauty of life, and then cut with the blade the desired shape into the BMF. A fresh blade mustn’t be pressed, but only slightly be torn along the edges/shapes of the body shell. When slipping with the knife, don’t get suicidal, but simply put another piece of BMF on this point and repeat the work. The BMF is so thin, that two or three layers do not make a difference in the result. As the BMF is expensive, I use it only for the desired areas, for the rest of the model car I simply use Maskol (by Humbrol) which is applied generously and prevent the body from overspray. It can afterwards be peeled of easily with a wet finger. If you want to spray lines instead of radial shapes, you can simply cut the BMF with a ruler on the support paper and stick in onto, this is very easy! When ready with cutting, press on all edges of the foil very properly! Spray two layers (with one day pause!) of the desired second colour and then remove foil and Maskol. Be careful: The BMF sticks very tight on matte paint, sometimes you need the help of the surgeon blade to get under the foil for removing it (be careful!). Remainings of the BMF adhesive can easily be removed with washing benzine and a (clean) cotton tip. Check all the edges under a magnifying glass and if there are any impurities, take the blade and scratch off very carefully the top painting to get an absolutely sharp edge. If everything is up to your expectations, apply one or two coatings of clear lacquer.

As I have no projects with a two-tone painting at the moment, I cannot show pictures of every single step, but as soon as I will build such a car, I can repeat this tutorial with photos in the section “Tips & Techniques” if you want.

The grille with a first layer of clear lacquer and a tiny Cord crest:

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I casted some new whitewalls:

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The rear of the tires had to be painted white, small Cord logos are applied on the hubcaps:

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Tom
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Re: Cord L29 Boattail Speedster by MiniMarque 43

Post by Tom » Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:13 pm

Fantastic detail in those wheels alone. Your home-made tyres look superb.

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