Aston Martin C Type by Mikansue

[David MG]

Those vents are a work of art. Very neatly done.

So well done along with the radiator mesh that you now will have to make a 143 engine to fill the void!

[Jean B.]

Looking forward to seeing what colour you paint this Jean. The dark green one you showed above looks great, but the colour hides some of the fine detail like the teardrop vents you just added.

You won't be surprised when I tell you that this is a difficult question for me since beginning this model... The colour when I received the car was black (shown on the first photos), and when I stripped it, it revealed that it had formerly been built and painted an intensive green. I tend to follow the nowadays version with the licence plate "LMF 385" which seems to be the original for the Mikansue model. That with dark green paint all the details will disappear is exactly what I fear! Therefore I think about leaving all the details in bare nickel-silver resp. "chromed". This way the details would stand out well, and to be honest: That the car nowadays is painted all-over seems to me like a "modernistic" interpretation and not necessarily original.

I think I've said it before, but I don't think keeping the 'Mikansue' stamp on the baseplate reflects how much effort you put into your creations. I think you should fill in the Mikansue stamp with solder.

I tried hard to keep the Mikansue writing when rebuilding the base-plate ! Imagine that in one hundred and fifty years some archeaologists compare this model with the remaining other three of this type and wonder, how this goes together

Jean,
IMHO - Keeping the 'Mikansue' stamp on the baseplate really illustrates your accomplishment. Sometimes, like this one, it would be nice to have an original on hand just to show the difference when illustrating the before and after.

A model maker I know always etches his work with his trademark Buzz (for Buzz Lockwood) and the month and year, ex: 9/89 on every model he builds. I have started doing that with the Brooklins that I "enhance" with my stewil and the date modified though my work is nothing like yours.

I so enjoy watching how you "fix" these little models Jean.
Here is one of mine if anyone is interested, but without a pic of the baseplate.
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=8824

I've already seen your thread and was fascinated how even and glossy your painting is made, compliments! Tell me more about the details (type of airbrush, paint and so on)! And meanwhile I keep the original prints on the baseplate, but add a personal photo-etched sign with year and number (of my collection ).

Those vents are a work of art. Very neatly done.

Thank you! I don't think that it is a work of art, I think it's more a work of a nerd!

[Jean B.]

Not an entire new start, but I found a top shot of the C-Type in the www and realized that I forgot the perspective distortion when comparing the usual pictures and my model The tail must be made significantly longer, the endings of the rear fenders rounder. So I unpacked my soldering station once again and shaped the tail once more. It's very difficult to create proportions which roughly meet the original ones, but I think this time it should be o.k:



Furthermore lots of holes were drilled for all the tiny details and the shape of the doors is scribed into the body:



Thin wire was added to resemble the seams between fenders and body:

[Tom]

I would've been quite happy with the previous body shape but when you're doing such a thorough job it's good to go all the way.

[Jager]

Jean, I was wondering why you use solder and not automotive body filler for example ? I appreciate the solder is probably easier to work and shape, but I'd be worried about its long durability ?

[Jean B.]

Jean, I was wondering why you use solder and not automotive body filler for example ? I appreciate the solder is probably easier to work and shape, but I'd be worried about its long durability ?

I guess I've chosen the hard way all my life... But really, I am so fascinated about modelling with metal that I always try to solve any problem with various metals. And if it is possible to change a white-metal body with the same material - as solder is - then I choose this material to stay "authentic". But I have to admit, after this torture I really intend to use metal putty the next time...

A first coat of primer has been applied to see the remaining irregularities:



After retouching and a second layer it looks like this:


(rough surface has to be sanded, of course)

The next step will be to design new seats, as the original ones by Mikansue seem to have the scale 1/60 rather than 1/43. As the proportions of the car are still very difficult, at first I lifted up the seat shell by a 1.0mm sheet of nickel silver:

[Tom]

Starting to take shape already! I'm really looking forward to what you will make of this. No doubt it will be another work of art.

[Jean B.]

Couldn't resist to try the colour, "British Racing Green" by Humbrol. So a first coating is sprayed on, next steps in painting will take a couple of days as the enamel lacquer needs to dry quite a long time...

[Tom]

Great choice of colour!

[stewil]

Jean,
You said

Thin wire was added to resemble the seams between fenders and body:

A wonderful bit of extra detailing - Kudos!

Now I wonder if you will paint them the typical black. That would be a real challenge.
This project is your #1 to me, and keeping with the solder (lead) was typical of historic body work of that time period,
therefore you are fixing the model in an archeological manner. More Kudos to you.

[Jean B.]

Jean,
You said

Thin wire was added to resemble the seams between fenders and body:

A wonderful bit of extra detailing - Kudos!

Now I wonder if you will paint them the typical black. That would be a real challenge.
This project is your #1 to me, and keeping with the solder (lead) was typical of historic body work of that time period,
therefore you are fixing the model in an archeological manner. More Kudos to you.

...wish you had told me earlier! I must admit that I haven't seen this detail - the photos of the different cars from different periods show both versions: black and painted. I think now I will leave them painted, but it would have been no very difficult work to place the black painted wire after painting the body... well, maybe next time And yes, I love to work with with classic materials, therefore I only collect white metal cars and try to work with this material as much as possible! They will never show the detailing and the "correctness" of modern resine models, but really: I love this odd charme!

Meanwhile a second layer of painting has been sprayed, and the result looks this way:





I guess a third layer has to follow, as this colour doesn't cover very well...

[stewil]

Looking really good Jean,
You asked about my paint jobs once and I just remembered.
The Yellow 1936 Buick, from a rattle can, lacquer, no clear coat, sanded starting with maybe 300 then 400 then 600 wet/dry paper, then 2400 -> 3200 -> 4000 -> 6000 -> 8000 -> and finally 1200 grit sanding pads (foam backed and bendable. I also use sanding sticks and rounds of various grits too.


The sanding supplies. Micro-Mark has most of these. The pads are key.


Link to a painting discussion in the Diecast Tips and Techniques section which shows pictures of various models and techniques.
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=8824&p=204623#p204623

[Jean B.]

@Stewil: Thanks for your pictures! Very nice detailing and really masterly finished paintings! Guess I will have to make lots of experiments to achieve that "realistic" touch your models show

The plumber is coming and I have to leave the basement for a couple of days At least I could finish first templates for the headlights and the seats which will be casted in white metal:



So it's the best time to start with designing the photo-etch parts, guess it will take a while:

[reeft1]

Jean - did you ever post a step by step photo guide to photo-etching?

Thanks

[Jean B.]

Jean - did you ever post a step by step photo guide to photo-etching?

Thanks

Of course I did http://scale143.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=10535

[Jean B.]

Silicone moulds were made from the polystyrol patterns for seats and headlights and casted with white-metal:





Patterns and ready parts:



Plus rear lights which were turned from aluminium wire:



Marker lights were drilled out and filled with clear resin:



Fuel caps were polished and glued into body, plus door hinges (hardly visible because painted):

[Tom]

I love the handmade parts. Much in the spirit of the original kit, but a lot nicer.

[Jean B.]

Finally, the photo etching film is designed:



Always a difficult work to make all the radii of windows etc. matching the coachwork. At last only with the ready-made parts it turns out if everything fits

[Jean B.]

...et voilà:



And I can already reveal: Window frames fit very well

[Tom]

Nice!

[Jean B.]

Baseplate and interior sprayed black:



And some of the details:

[Tom]

Nice, starting to come together again. Love the detail on the dash.

[Jean B.]

I hesitated all the time if I should leave the painting as it was or if I should polish it... Finally, I was courageous and made it :







I really have to say that it was worth it! The surfaces are much more even, the wet gloss is eliminated so that the "scale effect" turns out. Some retouches still have to be made, but generally I'm very happy with the result !

The wheels are now painted black:

[Tom]

Paintwork looks superb, and I can't wait to see what the assembled wheels will look like!