So well done along with the radiator mesh that you now will have to make a 143 engine to fill the void!Tom wrote:Those vents are a work of art. Very neatly done.

So well done along with the radiator mesh that you now will have to make a 143 engine to fill the void!Tom wrote:Those vents are a work of art. Very neatly done.
You won't be surprised when I tell you that this is a difficult question for me since beginning this model... The colour when I received the car was black (shown on the first photos), and when I stripped it, it revealed that it had formerly been built and painted an intensive green. I tend to follow the nowadays version with the licence plate "LMF 385" which seems to be the original for the Mikansue model. That with dark green paint all the details will disappear is exactly what I fear! Therefore I think about leaving all the details in bare nickel-silver resp. "chromed". This way the details would stand out well, and to be honest: That the car nowadays is painted all-over seems to me like a "modernistic" interpretation and not necessarily original.Jager wrote:Looking forward to seeing what colour you paint this Jean. The dark green one you showed above looks great, but the colour hides some of the fine detail like the teardrop vents you just added.
I tried hard to keep the Mikansue writing when rebuilding the base-plateJager wrote:I think I've said it before, but I don't think keeping the 'Mikansue' stamp on the baseplate reflects how much effort you put into your creations. I think you should fill in the Mikansue stamp with solder.
I've already seen your thread and was fascinated how even and glossy your painting is made, compliments! Tell me more about the details (type of airbrush, paint and so on)! And meanwhile I keep the original prints on the baseplate, but add a personal photo-etched sign with year and number (of my collectionstewil wrote:Jean,
IMHO - Keeping the 'Mikansue' stamp on the baseplate really illustrates your accomplishment. Sometimes, like this one, it would be nice to have an original on hand just to show the difference when illustrating the before and after.
A model maker I know always etches his work with his trademark Buzz (for Buzz Lockwood) and the month and year, ex: 9/89 on every model he builds. I have started doing that with the Brooklins that I "enhance" with my stewil and the date modified though my work is nothing like yours.
I so enjoy watching how you "fix" these little models Jean.
Here is one of mine if anyone is interested, but without a pic of the baseplate.
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=8824
Thank you! I don't think that it is a work of art, I think it's more a work of a nerd!Tom wrote:Those vents are a work of art. Very neatly done.
I guess I've chosen the hard way all my life...Jager wrote:Jean, I was wondering why you use solder and not automotive body filler for example ? I appreciate the solder is probably easier to work and shape, but I'd be worried about its long durability ?
A wonderful bit of extra detailing - Kudos!Thin wire was added to resemble the seams between fenders and body:
...wish you had told me earlier! I must admit that I haven't seen this detail - the photos of the different cars from different periods show both versions: black and painted. I think now I will leave them painted, but it would have been no very difficult work to place the black painted wire after painting the body... well, maybe next timestewil wrote:Jean,
You saidA wonderful bit of extra detailing - Kudos!Thin wire was added to resemble the seams between fenders and body:
Now I wonder if you will paint them the typical black. That would be a real challenge.
This project is your #1 to me, and keeping with the solder (lead) was typical of historic body work of that time period,
therefore you are fixing the model in an archeological manner. More Kudos to you.
Of course I didreeft1 wrote:Jean - did you ever post a step by step photo guide to photo-etching?
Thanks
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